Chardonnay (a.k.a. the Chameleon)
The many of faces of the world’s most popular white grape.
Chardonnay: an international grape with a storied past and a constantly-evolving present.
Originating in early vineyards in medieval Burgundy, Chardonnay is over one millennium old. As with anything that has such a long and legendary existence, Chardonnay proved that it is extremely willing to adapt to a host of new environments. It now grows from England to New Zealand. Chardonnay is ready and willing to travel.
In fact, Chardonnay is such a good chameleon that the ability to grow it is now considered a benchmark for a new wine region. Imagine inverting the perception of win grapes from being notoriously finnicky to easygoing. That is Chardonnay. The powerhouse grape just as easily survive cool, cloudy springs in England as scorching hot summers in Paso Robles.
Chardonnay can vary wildly in winemaking styles, making it one of the hardest wines to blind taste. Depending on the preference of the winemaker, it can be snappy, crisp and lean, or smooth, buttery and full-bodied.
And Chardonnay has one more little trick—it is extremely good at showcasing unique elements of terroir.
Terroir is a French term used to describe the effect of soil, sun, terrain and other elements that are unique to the place where the grape is grown. When handled by a skilled winemaker, Chardonnay is able to brilliantly display a sense of place.
Chardonnay’s rocky history
Chardonnay didn’t start out as its own variety of grape. It emerged over one thousand years ago, the accidental love child of two separate varietals.
In Burgundy, the ancestral home of Chardonnay, the red grape Pinot Noir grew in close proximity to a white variety brought to ancient France from Croatia by the Romans, Gouais blanc. In ancient times, the two vines had plenty of chances to interbreed, and the hybrid white grape Chardonnay was born. This new type of grape showed such vigor that early winegrowers created a long list of spinoff varietals, or “crosses”: Aligoté, Gamay Noir, and Melon to name a few.
Medieval winemaking was hampered by the limits of technology. After harvest, grapes were either trampled or passed through a primitive press to extract the juice. While the the mechanism of fermentation was somewhat understood, winemakers back then had no idea how to prevent spoilage once the wine was stored in barrels or stone containers. Without the addition of sulfites, aging was not possible, so the wine had to be consumed quickly before it turned to vinegar.
By the 1100’s, Cistercian monks settled at Pontigny Abbey, in the area north of Burgundy known as Chablis. For the next three hundred years, the area gained renown as one of the greatest wine regions in France. Prosperous and producing prolific amounts of wine, Chablis attracted the attention of the Huguenots in 1568. They sacked Faubourg, the northern part of the main town, and later laid siege to the better-fortified southern portion known as Bourg, effectively stifling the local wine industry.
After centuries of economic challenges and the ravages of the phylloxera epidemic in the late 1870’s, Chablis’ total land under vine fell to just 550 hectares, making it one of the smallest in France. Several technological advancements were needed to save the floundering wine region: treating the vines with copper fungicide to prevent mildew, and the grafting of Chardonnay clones onto rootstock resistant to phylloxera. Not until 1970 did Chablis find its way back into the mainstream wine scene.
Why should you care about Chablis? It is the only Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) region known for producing Chardonnay in its most mineral, acidic, and savage form. Chardonnay is the only varietal permitted to be grown in this region. The wine’s character comes from the soil: a chalky, bright, limestone-based terrain known as “Kimmeridgean soil.” This limestone base is composed of ancient oyster shells and helps make Chardonnay so crisp and so clean that winemakers do very little to alter it during fermentation or aging. Chablis is typically aged in stainless steel, not oak, to preserve a sense of freshness and vigor.
This kind of Chardonnay is so distinctive that it is called by its AOC place name, “Chablis”, in the same way that wine from Burgundy is called “Burgundy.” A very common tasting note of Chablis is gunflint. It’s easy to see why when tasting—there is certainly very steely quality. Chablis is known for its simplicity and tart, citrusy nature. If that sounds like a delicious match for a seafood entrée, then join the ranks of many top chefs who name Chablis as one of the most versatile and satisfying pairing partners.
The other side of the coin
All the way over on the West Coast of the USA, California Chardonnay first appeared in the 1970’s. Known for aromas of buttered popcorn and sweet vanilla, Chardonnay certainly went through a heavier, fuller-bodied phase in the US. Why such a drastic transformation from Chablis? It’s the same grape, right?
There are several differences in climate between the New World region of California and the Old World regions like Burgundy and Chablis. There is more abundant sunshine, hotter weather, the cooling presence of fog from the Pacific, sharp diurnal shifts in temperature, and a longer growing season. Naturally, Chardonnay flourished under more forgiving conditions and started producing wines that were bolder, fruitier, and more tropical in nature. In fact, one of the most common tasting notes of New World Chardonnay is pineapple.
It’s important to keep in mind that most wine regions in California are still very young. Californian winemakers also earned a reputation for being rebellious and independent, and threw off many of the rules made in older wine regions.
After experiencing the first major boom in the 70’s and worldwide recognition at the Judgement of Paris, many new winemakers planted Chardonnay without much consideration for the best possible situation or terrior. in their minds, Chardonnay needed extra handling in the winemaking process to smooth out any rough edges. That’s likely where a dependence on malolactic fermentation and extended oak aging came into play. The American market came to love this lush, fruity, approachable style and it quickly dominated the domestic industry. Chardonnay is still the 2nd-most popular white table wine in the US after Moscato.
However, the wine industry is extremely tight-knit and not afraid of self-improvement. After studying with some of the masters of Chardonnay technique in Burgundy, California winemakers began to think more critically about their plantings. When phylloxera struck in the 1980’s and caused nearly $1 billion in replantings, wine growers now had a chance to isolate preferred sites for their new Chardonnay vines.
Today, the Chardonnay produced in California is much more nuanced. Winemakers from Monterey to Santa Barbara are experimenting with exceptional single-varietal and blended wines. There are the soft classics, like Chalk Hill in Sonoma County, and edgy, strictly minimalist renditions like Diatom from Greg Brewer at Brewer-Clifton Winery in the Santa Rita Hills (who just won the 2020 Wine Enthusiast Winemaker of the Year Award).
The sheer diversity of California topography means that there is something for everyone in any price category. One thing is certain—a renewed focus on quality and sustainable production techniques means that most wines from responsible producers are guaranteed to be uniquely delicious. There is probably a California Chardonnay to match for every style of cuisine imaginable. Some are big and bold enough to enjoy with a steak, others a delicate match for oysters and seafood.
Give this grape some love.
Chardonnay may be a bipolar, schizophrenic grape, but it is also one of the most forgiving, adaptable, delicious styles produced by winemakers all over the globe.
I love the depth and character these wines provide, and their ability to age for incredibly long stints means they can be wonderful additions to a collector’s hoard. In fact, Chardonnay is one of the few whites that can be laid down (or “cellared”) for decades at a time while still improving and developing complex aromatic bouquets.
In the mood for tropical Napa Valley Chardonnay or a lean, lemony Chablis? Get out there and try some of this incredible tasty wine. It isn’t necessary to spend a fortune, but I encourage taking the time to evaluate the kind of Chardonnay that makes its way into your shopping basket.
Further Reading:
Kevin Zraly, “Windows on the World: Complete Wine Course”
Hugh Johnson, “The Story of Wine”
